Introduction
This was my third trip backpacking along the Cambrian Way, having previously walked it in
2011 and 2018. I wild camped each night avoiding the popular campsites, and resupplied
along the way with food whenever there was an opportunity. I use a net tent and tarp
combination which is very configurable eg. it can be pitched lower in high wind, or higher in
calm conditions. And it allows for excellent ventilation, thus reducing condensation problems.
On summer trips I don't bother with a stove for cooking. I walk around 30 miles per day,
starting early and finishing each day whenever I feel like it, depending on the weather,
terrain, aches and pains etc. This is one of the great advantages of backpacking, over
booked accommodation. On most UK trails I plan for a resupply every couple of days.
Overall I was fortunate with the weather though some days were very hot and water was an
issue. In Snowdonia the weather changed to high winds and rain, but fortunately the rain
wasn't too prolonged.
Day 1 - Monday 31st May 2021 - Cardiff to Pontypool
After a careless mistake with my train times I arrived in Cardiff an hour later than intended
(and £20 lighter having had to purchase another ticket!). But fortunately I was still able to get
to Cardiff Castle ready to depart by midday. The weather was hot but fairly pleasant and it
was easy progress towards Pontypool. I carried 1L of water from Cardiff, but was pleased to
be buying another 2L at the little store in Machen. Camp was in a small wood a couple of
miles before Pontypool. No rain forecast so I just used the nettent.
Camp Location: ST 273977
1. Castell Coch, Tongwynlais
2. Trig Point on Twmbarlwm
Day 2 - Tuesday 1st June 2021 - Pontypool to Pen Trumau
A lovely sunrise and I arrived at Pontypool Park ready to eat breakfast, which I'd just
purchased from the 24hr Esso service station. More supplies were obtained in Abergavenny
late morning, and I began the ascent to Sugarloaf. It was a hot day and by the time I
reached the chapel at Capel y Ffin at 17:00, I was getting quite concerned about water.
Fortunately I found a good source on my way up towards Twmpa. A truly glorious evening
allowed me to amble along the ridge and I camped at about 20:30 just past Waun Fach.
Again, the forecast was good so I just used the nettent.
Camp Location: SO 206296
3. Sunrise heading into Pontypool
4. Ascending St Mary's Vale towards Sugar Loaf
5. Grwyne Fawr Reservoir from Chwarel y Fan towards Capel-y-ffin
6. Chapel at Capel-y-ffin
7. Summit of Twmpa (Lord Hereford's Knob) towards Pen y Fan
8. View ahead from Twmpa
9. Waun Fach
Day 3 - Wednesday 2nd June 2021 - Pen Trumau to Fan Fawr
An easy walk in the early morning sunshine had me arriving at Crickhowell at 08:15, which
turned out to be limited in choice for breakfast and supplies as some shops don't open until
later. The weather held for several hours but by the time I had started the ascent up onto the
escarpment to the Brecon Beacons it was raining and quite misty. Finally reaching Pen y
Fan, and having seen nobody in the last hour or so, I was somewhat surprised to be on the
summit talking to a couple from London. This clearly distracted me as shortly afterwards I
found myself descending the wrong ridge, and it was only when I had descended several
hundred meters and started wondering where the obelisk was, that I realised my mistake!
Very frustrating, and back up I went, but I managed to contour across to Corn Du near the
top, and thus made my descent a second time. I continued a couple of miles beyond the
Storey Arms, camping in wet weather at 20:00.
Camp Location: SN 969203
10. Sunrise looking back from Waun Fach
11. Craig y Cilau from Quarry Path, Llangattock Escarpment
12. Chartist Cave Plaque on Mynydd Llangyndr
13. Heading into the Brecon Beacons, view from Craig y Fan Ddu
14. Pen y Fan and Corn Du from Cribyn
15. Summit of Pen y Fan
16. Tommy Jones Memorial on Craig Cwm Llwch
17. Camping near Fan Fawr
Day 4 - Thursday 3rd June 2021 - Fan Fawr to Rhandirmwyn
A comfortable camp but lots of dew and condensation in the morning which is always
undesirable. Mist and light rain made navigation a chore but by the time I arrived at Llyn y
Fan Fawr it was clearing up for the day. Gorgeous views of the escarpment above Llyn y
Fan Fach. Arrived Llandovery shortly after 5pm and had a meal at the chip shop, and then
an excellent choice of supplies at the Co-op at the far end of town. Departing at 18:20 gave
me plenty of time to find a suitable camping spot (I knew from previous trips that this section
is very awkward for wild camping). A beautiful summer's evening for walking, camping at
21:00 having just passed the large campsite at Rhandirmwyn.
Camp Location: SN 776437
18. Poor visibility and no paths (the section after the Storey Arms)
19. Maen Llia with matching Information Board
20. Trig Point on Fan Gyhirych
21. Waterfalls on ascent towards Llyn y Fan Fawr
22. Looking back towards escarpment of Picws Du
23. Llyn y Fan Fach and Pics Du
24. St Mary's Church, Llanfai, Llandovery
25. A pleasant evening along the track leaving Llandovery
Day 5 - Friday 4th June 2021 - Rhandirmwyn to Gelmast
After a very comfortable night and some easy road walking I was in the Doethie Valley where
it was somewhat chilly as the sun was not yet high enough to be shining on the walker's
path. Tyn y cornel was seemingly deserted (on my trip in 2018 I'd spent an enjoyable 1.5
hours here chatting at lunchtime to the volunteer caretakers). Strata Florida was reached
early in the afternoon and this year it had been left open due to Covid, so I spent a while
looking around, which I hadn't bothered doing on my previous two trips. Pleasant weather
once more allowed for good progress. The views from Domen Milwyn were amazing - it's
one of my favourite summits. Near Gelmast I found a soft pine needle forest camp at 20:00
which was a bonus.
Camp Location: SN 780754
26. Sunrise near the river Towy, heading towards the Doethie Valley
27. Start of Doethie Valley
28. End of Doethie Valley
29. Looking back on the Doethie Valley
30. Standing stone at Nantymaen
31. Summit of Garn Gron
32. Woodland descending to Strata Florida
33. Woodland descending to Strata Florida
34. Strata Florida Abbey Entrance
35. Inside Strata Florida Abbey
36. Llyn Fyrddon Fach and Llyn Fyrddon Fawr
37. Domen Milwyn
Day 6 - Saturday 5th June 2021 - Gelmast to Ffridd Dolgadfan
Another comfortable night allowed for an early start, passing the bee hives at Gelmast
before their occupants were stirring. The ground was very wet and the sun looked incredible
shining over the mist in the valley as I descended into Devil's Bridge. Breakfast and a
resupply at Ponterwyd garage and then onwards for the day. Quite overcast for much of the
day which was a welcome change as some parts of my arms and legs were getting a bit
sunburnt. Shortly after Moelfre Fach I decided to stop at 19:30 as a perfect forest camp was
available and I suspected I wouldn't get better in the next few miles.
Camp Location: SN 868999
38. Beehives at Gelmast
39. Sunrise approaching Devil's Bridge
40. Sunrise approaching Devil's Bridge
41. Woodland after Devils Bridge
42. Approaching Ponterwyd
43. Nant-y-moch Reservoir from Pen Pumlumon Fawr
44. View back towards Plynlimon from Bugeilyn
Day 7 - Sunday 6th June 2021 - Ffridd Dolgadfan to Cadair Idris
It rained much of the night but had stopped before I departed which was convenient. Wet
and misty at first especially on the ridge where the wind farm is. It looked like it might rain
later and the forecast wasn't great so I took the opportunity to dry the tarp and have some
breakfast near the last wind turbine. Reached Mallwyd garage late morning which provided
another breakfast and a resupply. Took the new route up to Bwlch Siglen which was good
(but the final descent to the Bwlch was a no-path nightmare of scrub, painful on sunburnt
legs!). Loaded up on water on the ascent to Maesglase, where I stopped for a while to chat
to a solitary walker who was having his lunch on the summit, the only walker I had seen all
day. Had a long lunch break just before the ascent of Waun-oer as I was feeling tired and the
view was excellent. On reaching the A487 I wasn't particularly relishing the climb up towards
Cadair Idris, but it was only 18:00 and there was nowhere obviously pleasant to camp. On
my previous two trips there have been many jet spotters here and jets passing though, but
today no-one was there and nothing to take my mind off the climb. It was a slog, but I finally
arrived at the first levels where I had fully made up my mind to camp. But I didn't have much
water and by now it had turned into a gorgeous evening so I continued over to Cadair Idris
which I reached at 20:45. It was a spectacular evening and the sunset was amazing. I finally
camped about a mile further down, very pleased I had not lingered at the A487 a few hours
previously.
Camp Location: SH 690135
45. Fir tree, Ffridd Dolgadfan
46. Rhododendrons in lane leaving Commins Coch
47. Drying tarp on the wind farm track
48. 'Path' from Foel Dinas down to Bwlch Siglen
49. Waterfall from Craig Maesglase
50. Cottongrass on Maesglase
51. View from Craig Rhiw-erch
52. Craig Portas
53. Lunch break, looking towards Waun-oer
54. Cadair Idris from Waun-oer Summit
55. 1st level on way up Cadair Idris
56. Cadair Idris summit, Barmouth in the distance
57. Looking back at Cadair Idris from the Pony Path
Day 8 - Monday 7th June 2021 - Cadair Idris to Cwm Bychan
I woke to a beautiful morning and the walk into Barmouth couldn't have been nicer. Arrived
Barmouth, posted some stuff home, then headed for the Co-op for a huge breakfast and
more supplies. On leaving an hour and a half later I felt I had brought too much food along
for the coming two days but in fact I ate it all, so clearly not. A late lunch and tarp drying took
place on Y Llethr with nice views over the Rhinogs. So far it had been a clear day, but by the
time I reached the summit of Rhinog Fawr at 17:00 it was misty and I had no views from the
summit. Water had been a problem today so I was pleased to refill at the Roman Steps and
I eventually camped in a wood just before the camp site in Cwm Bychan. It was only 18:45
and now a very nice evening, but the next couple of hours weren't likely to be offering any
better wild camping spots, and I'd had a late finish the previous evening.
Camp Location: SH 648311
58. Sunrise, breaking camp
59. Sunrise from Tyrrau Mawr
60. Sunrise from Tyrrau Mawr
61. Clapper Bridge above Arthog Falls
62. Lunch stop and drying tarp on Y Llethr, overlooking Rhinog Fach
63. Rhinog Fawr from Rhinog Fach
64. Summit of Rhinog Fawr
65. Woodland camp near Cwm Bychan
Day 9 - Tuesday 8th June 2021 - Cwm Bychan to Cwm Llan
Mist for the first few hours made navigation difficult. Reached the dam mid morning having
wasted half an hour floundering on some supposed ‘path' about a mile before - wished I had
stayed on the track. Lunch stop was near the Ffestiniog railway where I watched the train
come and go before heading up past the reservoir and onto Moelwyn Mawr. It was a sunny
afternoon with great views and easy progress was made through the quarries and then over
Cnicht, finally descending to reach Nantmor. I arrived at Beddgelert at 17:30 for dinner and
the final resupply before Conwy. After an hour or so I set off again, heading out with a full
pack aiming to camp somewhere along the Watkin path. I found a decent spot in Cwm Llan
at 20:45.
Camp Location: SH 620521
66. Llyn Du
67. Diffwys
68. Lunch stop near Dduallt station
69. Summit of Moelwyn Mawr
70. Rhosydd Quarry
71. Moelwyn Mawr from Cnicht
72. Moss covered wall, on lane heading towards Nantmor
73. Aberglaslyn Pass
74. Llyn Dinas
Day 10 - Wednesday 9th June 2021 - Cwm Llan to Cefn Llechen
Initially a nice morning, but by the time I arrived at the summit of Snowdon it was blowing a
gale and raining. I was the only one up there, though shortly afterwards near the finger
stone I met two others who were about to complete their 3 peaks challenge. I stopped for
breakfast at Pen y Pass and then headed up onto the Glyders. High winds and rain made it
challenging and views were non-existent. My plan for today had been to include Crib Goch
and Tryfan but I had aborted this in view of the conditions. Shortly before 13:30 I started the
ascent from Tal y Llyn Ogwen in somewhat improved weather, but by the time I reached the
plateau it was back to high winds and some rain. I saw nobody else along the Carnedd
range. Carnedd Llewellyn was reached at 16:40. My original plan had been to camp in the
next few miles, but I had not stopped much today because of the conditions and it was too
early, and poor weather, to contemplate that now. As luck would have it by evening it turned
out to be quite dry, windy and sunny so I found myself ambling towards Conwy in summer
sunshine, looking for a camping spot which would leave me just a few miles short. This I
found on Cefn Llechen around 21:00.
Camp Location: SH 746750
75. Cwm Llan at sunrise
76. Cwm Llan at sunrise
77. Snowdon Summit Visitor Centre
78. Snowdon Summit Viewing Platform
79. Glyder Fawr
80. Glyder Fawr
81. Lunch break on Bochlwyd Buttress overlooking Pen yr Ole Wen
82. Tryfan from Tal y Llyn Ogwen
83. Cwm Lloer from Pen yr Ole Wen
84. Carnedd Llewelyn summit
85. Foel Grach Mountain Refuge Shelter
86. Menau Strait from Summit of Foel-fras
87. Looking back towards Foel-fras from Drum
88. Llandudno and Conwy from Tal y Fan
89. Horses near Maen Penddu
Day 11 - Thursday 10th June 2021 - Cefn Llechen to Conwy
An easy few miles into Conwy, where I arrived at 07:00.
90. Sunrise from camp
91. Great Orme from approach to Sychnant Pass
92. Oak Eggar Caterpillar
93. Conwy Castle from descent of Conwy Mountain
94. Conwy Castle - End of Walk
